nafis blog: Journey to Naran

nafis blog: Journey to Naran: Kaghan and Naran valley is one of the beautiful places of Pakistan. People very much like it these days. The traditional touring pl...

Journey to Naran

Kaghan and Naran valley are one of the beautiful places of Pakistan. People very much like it these days. The traditional touring places has lost its attraction, as Muree is congested and Swat devastated by law and order situation. Naran valley is full of fairy lands like  Lake Saiful Maluk, Lulusar and Babusar pass. The route leads you to Kashmir, Chilas and Karakram highway which takes you to Skardu, K-2, Hunza and China.

I, at Islamabad, decided to reach  Naran on 14 August - Pakistan Independence day, when the entire valley is full of fun. Rush of tourists is at peak on this day as thereafter arrival of tourists decline as winter season set in September. My companion was my son on and we stuffed our separate bags with necessary items. Common bags ruin journey. I also checked essential items for my car i.e. break oil, toe chain, a rope, a pipe etc and lo we were all set to move. Compressed Natural gas cannot be obtained beyond Mahsehra.

In the afternoon at 3 pm, on 13 august, we embarked my trusted 1993 Corolla car. Two separate roads lead you to the starting point of Hassan Abdal. One via Peshawar Motorway and another GT Road both meet at Hassan abdal. It took almost 35 minutes on motorway to reach Hassan Abdal heading towards Haripur, Abbott Abad, Mansehra, Kaghan and Naran. It was grilling hot. A guide colleague joined us at Hassan abdal and we drove towards Abbott Abad. Road is single lane upto Abbottabad. Entire traffic of Hazara Division and Northern Areas ply on the road. We tried to cover maximum distance in day light till 8.30 pm. At Abbott Abad we took Mansehra bypass road  and left Karakuram Highway. our next station was Balakot. We stopped for a tea break at Najaf Sial- 35 Km short of Balakot. Till that point Road was fine, almost 35 meter wide fully carpeted enticing for over speeding. Another four hours journey of 100 kilometers was yet to cover. It was sun set time and our expected arrival time was midnight.  By now darkness prevailed and the road negotiating on the edge of the hill with River Kunhar gushing side by side with deafening noise in the calm valley of pines guarded mountains. Kunhar accompany you right upto Lulusar lake from where it originates and bring glacial water and trout fish. Never step in, its run off has a rocket speed and the moment you fell down it smashes your head with huge rock boulders . We reached Naran at midnight at one a.m. at prior booked room in a budget hotel.

Accommodation is dirt cheap at Naran. Charges for a single room of three beds was three to four thousand rupees  (almost 30-40 US Dollars) a night. Hotels were jam-packed and tourists with families’ were knocking at private residential houses for a room. Some hoteliers had erected tents who charged Rs. 8,000 to 10,000 (one US Dollars = 97 Pak rupees) per night. The family size tent is large enough for 10 to 15 persons, with attached bath. I have never seen such an inexpensive accommodation in my tours to Thailand, Singapore, Sweden, Denmark and Britain. 

 No starred hotel is there. A couple of tourist resorts exist. The resort run by Sarhad Tourism Department caters only to families. A Rest house run by Forest department is not feasible as its booking can be obtained from its Provincial headquarter at Peshawar. Tourist set up their own tents for which plenty of ground is available at wide stretches for free. The people would not object for camping. At least two better type hotels are available a little away from congested main bazaar on Saiful maluk Road. In the morning  we had a plan to go to  nearby Lulusar lake.

Lulusar (pronounce Loo loo Sar) is a must-see place. . Lulusar is a lake at a distance of almost 60-70 kilometers towards south east of Naran, a place from where River Kunhar originates. We hired a jeep for Rs.2500 (almost 25 Us $). Natural springs and melting glaciers fill the lake and overflow makes river Kunhar which flow to Naran and Mansehra you fathom. The road from Naran to Lulusar and Babusar leads to Skardu and onward to Gilgit and China. This river is full of trout fish but icy glacial water uproots your feet to stand on. A company provides you a canoe for adventure fishing. The banks of the River has lengthy stretches of crop fields of peas (mutter), onion, potato, spinach (palak saag) which are transported to markets in Abbotabad and Islamabad.  A project of Netherlands exists in the area which probably introduced better variety of nuts, fruits and off season vegetables for cultivation. 

 Lake Saif ul Maluk is the heart of Naran. It is master piece of nature’s architecture. It is like a cup of  blue water  placed  between an ice cake. You will cry Oh my God how great an architect you are?  Almost ten kilometer road to the Lake is fully rocky with gravel and boulders. Specialist local drivers can drive on the road. Never take up your car to the lake even your Pajero or Land cruiser jeep. I stress never. At least at two places you have to drive on glacier and have to negotiate on sharp turn. You may risk your life and of family. Let it be left to professional drivers. If you hire them early in the morning the rates are between 1500 to 2000 rupees. This increases up to three thousand a trip from 10 am to afternoon. They give you two hours to stay at lake. Mutual consent can increase the stay. But two hours are enough to enjoy and drive back. The bulky glacier on way to lake provides ample opportunity for a photo session which leads to temporary traffic jams.

          Seasonal migrants are at your service, some standing behind  small tables to press your clothes (paint shirt) with a coal-fired iron for only thirty rupees, thirty pence. So the next time leave iron back. Selling maize cob, potato chips and coal roasted chicken and Shawls, souvenirs is a seasonal business. Provision of Jeep service is another hot commodity local people are massively engaged in. There is huge potential of tourism industry but not yet exploited by investors. A small air field for corporate tycoons and foreign dignitaries is needed. 

Local people migrate with their sheep and other animals  to nearby Mansehra and Shinkyari in winters due to freezing cold just to return  in late May when life comes to normal, meadows are green and tourists in thousands.   We also returned home with a pledge to comeback once again.                                

***